Date: Sun, 28 Sep 1997 11:32:41 -0400
From: John Young <jya-AT-pipeline.com>
Subject: Electromagnetic Harassment Shield: Richard Serra


28 September 1997
Source: http://www.mk.net/~mcf/shield.htm#toc

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Shielding Against Electromagnetic Harassment 

by "Raven1" 

----------------------------------------------------------------
Caveat 

It's possible that any success Raven1 is having is being allowed 
by her controllers. She reports that they seem to progressively 
break through each advance she makes. 

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This report is by an anonymous Canadian victim from the Internet, 
"Raven1." 

She requests feedback at   raven1-AT-netaccess.on.ca 

----------------------------------------------------------------

Original Article Contents  (chronological) 

Introduction
RE: Technical Jargon
This Writer's Experience
Proposed Shielding Experiment
"Mu Metal"
Steel Chain
Steel Buttons
Shielding vs. Non-Burning Harassment
Stealth Paint
Possible Shielding Setback
Hopeful Note re: Shielding Setback
Quick, Easy Test to See If Solid Steel Helps
Repeating a Recommendation from Julianne McKinney
"Grounding"
Forced Ventilation
Selection of a Fan
Ventilation Ducting
Ancillary Cables Into the Sleeping Box
Request for Feedback
Skin-Contact Shielding
Finding the Aiming Direction
Skin Contact Materials

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                               Introduction 

What follows is a set of notes based on the experience of one 
electromagnetic harassment victim where some of the harassment 
effects have been reduced and sometimes eliminated by shielding. 
Any reader who tries various types of shielding is invited to 
write to raven1-AT-netaccess.on.ca for further information. 

Reports of what works and what doesn't would also be very much 
appreciated. 


August 25, 1996 

                          RE: Technical Jargon 

Note: Apologies to readers who may not understand technical jargon 
or who are unable to do the metalwork described in these notes. 
The idea is that those readers who can afford to experiment with 
shielding may have access to helpers and/or local tradesmen who 
will understand. 

                        This Writer's Experience 

I experience two main forms of electronic harassment: 

    electromagnetically triggered muscle jerking 
    electromagnetically generated burns on my skin and some 
       internal parts 

I have had some success in shielding with the burns. Thought I'd 
pass the progress to date along for your information. I'd like to 
remain anonymous. 

My guess is that it is possible to reduce or even eliminate the 
'voices' type of mind control harassment with enough shielding, at 
least while asleep. It is public knowledge (it's patented) that 
microwave is used for transmitting the voices. Microwave can be 
stopped. 

We can't walk around in medieval armour, of course, but 8 hours 
of harassment-free sleep would be a major improvement in victims' 
quality of life. 

As further experimentation demonstrates more things to try, I'll 
pass them on also. 

Here is a quick progress report on shielding experimentation to 
date: 

The 'cigarette burns' are very likely from a microwave device, 
possibly a 'maser' (a microwave counterpart of a laser). Microwave 
can be stopped by appropriate shielding, unlike direct ELF waves 
from a nearby antenna. 

In my case, I've tried these materials: 

    heavy steel mesh 
    aluminum foil 
    copper sheet 
    solid steel sheet 

Only solid steel sheet has been any help at all for shielding which 
is not placed against the skin. I have covered about 90% of my bed 
with solid sheet steel obtained from a supplier of industrial 
shelving. Panels range from (approximately) 24" x 48" up to 48" x 48" 
and come with very handy bolt holes for attaching screws or hanger 
rope and wire. The steel is painted and clean. 

(See September 1, 1996 note below for shielding in skin contact.) 

Due to suspension chains holding my be 4 feet above the floor 
(necessary to reduce fields sent from below) I haven't quite been 
able to get 100% coverage. 

It is that 10% gap, for suspension chains (and ventilation) which 
provides my harassers the chance to aim their maser inside. Even if 
they can't aim directly at me, a maser beam will bounce around quite 
a bit inside the steel shell around my bed. 


                    Proposed Shielding Experiment 

I'm going to try next an experiment using an office supplies cabinet, 
30" x 18" x 72", and a sleeping bag to see if totally sealing off 
all aiming directions will help. My harassers are so close that it 
may not help 100%, but I'm confident it will reduce the burns. (I 
will have to wait a month or two until my budget can support
the purchase.) 

I'll use a small fan ducted through a 3" plumbing iron pipe nipple 
at the top and bottom of the cabinet for ventilation. If reasonably 
successful, I may get some radar absorptive paint and put together a 
baffle for each end through which microwave will be absorbed before 
it gets inside. 

I'm passing this cabinet idea along so that others who may not have 
their harassers in an adjacent apt. or who can afford to try the 
cabinet sooner might see if it helps. I do know that when the aiming 
point is known, even at my close range, those panels DO stop most of 
the microwave, where the other metals don't. 


                               "Mu Metal" 

There is a metal alloy called 'mu metal' which is supposed to be more 
magnetic than plain steel. 

Exactly how much I don't know yet. Cheryl Welsh passes on this 
address: 

    Cutting Edge Catalog
    Befit Enterprises Ltd.
    PO Box 5034
    Southampton NY 11969
    800-497-9516. 

I have ordered the catalog. I suspect the alloy is more expensive 
than steel and I don't know just how much more magnetic it is. It is 
the magnetic properties of steel which are probably the reason for 
my experimental successes. 


                                Steel Chain 

There is one other experimental success which may be of use to other 
microwave burn victims: steel chain. 

I have woven together a sort of chain mail 'hood' using about 50 
feet of steel chain. (It must test magnetic.) 

This chain is commonly available in hardware stores and comes either 
chrome- or nickel-plated. It has twisted links, and is essentially 
the same chain you find in dog choke collars and leashes. 

It is smooth and comfortable against skin. 

The twisted links reduce the amount of opening available to an 
incoming microwave burn signal. 

I've found that if the harassers are really intent on burning your 
body behind the chain mail, they can raise the power enough to cause 
some sensation but the amount of sensation is still less as long as 
the chain is in good contact with your bare skin. 

If the harassers are really intent on burning a selected spot, then 
if you put under the chain mail either a patch of aluminum foil or 
one of those very wide 'body and fender' washers (steel, zinc coated 
usually) the combination of chain and spot shield will stop the burn. 
(The smaller B&F washers fit well into the outer ear.) 

I use a skin-tolerant 1/8" diameter cotton cord to do the weaving of 
the chain mail. for quick testing it is not necessary to weave 
anything - just hold the chain in a lump against the body part under 
attack. Ensure contact is made with bare skin. The more pressure, 
the greater contact area and the greater relief from the microwave 
burns. 


                               Steel Buttons 

Finally, I've found a source of rivet-style 0.6" diameter nickel-
plated decorative buttons. I'm going to rivet these in the tightest 
possible pattern on to a cloth backing. On the opposite side, I'll 
rivet another layer of the buttons which will cover the gaps. 

I'm hoping that will provide a lighter and more comfortable shield 
than the chain, which can be heavy and does sometimes slip off while 
sleeping. 


August 27, 1996 

               Shielding vs. Non-Burning Harassment 

The more I read the testimonials of other electro-magnetic 
harassment victims in far worse shape than I, it appears that: 

    electromagnetically transmitted voices, and, 
    bizarre visual happenings 

. . . are the most used harassment devices. 

Furthermore, implants seem to be the 'channel' used to direct the 
voices and possibly hypnoscaped visual effects into the heads of 
victims, while avoiding others nearby. 

Satellites seem a highly suspect source since the harassment is 
inescapable. (Satellite signals are not strong, so shielding may 
work well in case you are a victim of satellite signals.) 

More and more and more, it seems that shielding is the one thing 
we victims can try to eliminate the harassment at least part of the 
day, normally the time spent sleeping. 

I have had success in shielding from burns and muscle jerks to a 
lesser extent using solid steel shielding. That has been detailed 
in a recent note. 


                               Stealth Paint 

This note is to add a suggestion to readers who can afford to try
it: 

Try radar-absorbing "stealth" paint on the outside of a sleeping 
box. Also, line the ventilation openings with this stuff. 

I cannot guarantee success, since my income is limited and it will 
be some time before I can afford either the box or the paint. 

Just in case there are victims who can afford to try this now, one 
source is our friendly electromagnetic weapons store: 

    Consumertronics
    2011 Crescent Drive
    P.O. Drawer 537
    Alamogordo NM
    88310-0537
    505-434-0234 voice or fax
    505-438-1776 voice only 

The paint is listed under the heading of "Stealth Paint Mix (SPM)" 
on page 18 of my catalog. It's priced at: 

    $49 to mix in 1 quart of your paint
    $395 for enough mix for 10 quarts 

You supply whatever type of paint you want. 

Caution: One Consumertronics customer returned an electronic item, 
the broadband EM countermeasure device (BEMC) because it did not 
work. [No refund, requiring a lawsuit.- E.L.] 

That does not guarantee failure of all items from Consumertronics, 
because any active (i.e. signal producing) countermeasure device will 
not work on all incoming signals, just those for which it is set up. 

Stealth paint, being a passive item, has a better chance of working 
than the BEMC device. 

Stealth paint works by absorbing incoming signals and changing their 
energy to heat. It provides incoming signals with a really tough path 
to follow, like trying to run fast through waist deep water. (You'll 
eventually get there, but with far less remaining energy.) 

I'm speculating that a solid steel box with a coating of stealth 
paint might be good enough even to stop a satellite communicating 
with an implant. (Assuming, of course, that conventional 
electromagnetic signals are being used.) 

Cell phones even work in elevators, so it may take some time before 
we know how to really seal off ourselves completely from the incoming 
signals. 


August 27, 1996 

                       Possible Shielding Setback 

Just discovered a potentially serious setback while reading a lecture 
by Dr. Eldon Byrd, Psychotronics guy (and E.E. too) who has done work 
for the U.S. Navy. This lecture is part of the Leading Edge Research
Group web site at http://www.cco.net/~trufax 

Near the end of the lecture, Dr. Byrd says that there is a way to 
get microwave through anything - solid steel included. You start out 
with an ELF carrier wave, which does the penetrating. On top of the 
ELF wave you put a pulsed microwave signal. This is 'modulation in 
reverse' of what is usually done with ordinary radio, TV, radar etc. 

This gets the damaging pulses inside the steel box. His lecture says 
General Motors is experimenting with using this type of signal to 
zap army tank crews. (Hopefully they are using the signals to build 
a defense.) 

My suspicion is that there will be some way to at least reduce the 
signal even in this potent 'brew' of electromagnetic assault. Any 
other experimenters might want to keep their eye/mind open for some 
way this type of signal might be shielded against. 


                  Hopeful Note re: Shielding Setback 

I'm not the world's top electronics expert, but to the best of my 
knowledge, even though an ELF wave has high penetration, the power 
level will fall off rapidly with distance, as with any other 
electromagnetic wave.

What that means to an electronic harassment victim is that your 
harassers will have to be fairly close, as in an adjacent apartment, 
for plain ELF or ELF with microwave 'modulation' to get through your 
shielding. 

Those victims who can put a little distance, even a hundred feet, 
between themselves and their harassers' transmitter do have some 
hope that shielding will offer some protection. 

August 30, 1996 

             Quick, Easy Test to See If Solid Steel Helps 

Victims vary in their main methods of harassment (and intensity). 
Before spending a bundle on a steel sleeping box, a 'daytime' 
victim (one who has continuous attacks all the time) can quickly 
test the idea by simply ducking into a steel cabinet (at work for
example.) 

Solid closure of openings is critical to this test - microwave does 
bounce around like light, and so is capable of entering at almost 
any angle. Even a no-side-window panel van wouldn't be a true test 
unless the driver compartment windows were covered with steel also. 

Ideally the cabinet would be non-louvered, but if it is, an 
aluminum foil cover temporarily held up against any openings may 
prove or disprove the idea. 

Note: If your sensations occur because of pre-programmed hypnotic 
cues, this test may indicate no success.

I would be very grateful if any daytime victims try this if they 
could let me know how this works for them. I'm at: 

raven1-AT-netaccess.on.ca 


                     Repeating a Recommendation
                        from Julianne McKinney 

I read in a MindNet copy of a letter from Julianne McKinney to a 
victim that commercially available copper scouring pads, especially 
the larger sizes, can act as good shields. 

(I will try these, but I still suspect a solid steel 'sleeping box' 
would be about as good as it gets.) 

What makes her recommendation important is that ventilation and 
comfort are necessary for continued use. Scouring pads are light 
in weight and allow for some air passage. 

They might be useful in a forced ventilation pipe into a sleeping 
box at both ends to help trap stray signals from entering that 
way, and they are certainly much cheaper than anti-radar 'stealth 
paint'. 

My experience suggests that whatever shielding is used, it 
consistently works much better if it is magnetic. I plan on 
shopping around with a small magnet to test before buying. I would 
guess that a silver-finish scrubber would work quite well if it 
tested magnetic. 

(Not every copper-coloured scouring pad is actually made of copper 
or has copper plating.) 


                               "Grounding" 

As I try to work out defences to the EM harassment, I have heard a 
number of sincerely helpful experts caution me to be sure my 
shielding is grounded. 

My experience has been that grounding has no effect at all, and 
I believe I know why. 

My harassers use both direct ELF and microwave, from apartments 
above and below mine. Direct ELF will penetrate anything, so 
grounding does no appreciable good for that. 

Microwave has very physically short "waves", of the order of a 
few centimeters down to tiny fractions of a meter. A piece of wire 
in the path of a microwave signal will electrically 'vibrate', 
also with physically short distances between nodes and null 
points. (There is no signal at a "null" point, and maximum signal 
at a "node".) 

Grounding with microwave may force the nodes and nulls to shift 
position a little, but that doesn't actually contribute to any 
shielding effect. 

Furthermore, both water pipes and the 'green ground' in your 
power wiring are sometimes several stories above the deep, damp 
'earth ground plane'. Lots and lots of nodes and nulls can exist 
between you and that ground plane, which means that in reality, 
you are not grounded as far as microwave goes. You are more
like the tip of an antenna. 

It is worth trying, of course, but don't be surprised if even 
top notch grounding doesn't affect your harassment level. 

I'd appreciate hearing about your own experiences at: 

raven1-AT-netaccess.on.ca 


August 31, 1996 

                            Forced Ventilation 

If a solid steel box is to be used as a shielded sleeping 
enclosure, you will certainly need a continuous supply of 
fresh air. What follows here are my plans for ventilation as 
soon as I can afford to try a test sleeping box. 


                            Selection of a Fan 

In general, most household fans are not designed to operate 
against a fairly high pressure. In contrast, a vacuum cleaner 
is, but the output air would be far too hot for comfort and the 
noise level would make sleeping impossible. 

The Comair-Rotron company sells fans for equipment cooling. 
Forcing ventilation air through a 3-inch pipe (my choice) at 
both ends of the sleeping box requires a fair amount of pressure, 
and the noise level can't be higher than that which can be dealt 
with using perhaps foam ear plugs and/or white noise inside the
box. 

In general, you "can't" step down voltage with a variac or speed 
control to an induction motor, because it will overheat. However, 
through lots of experimentation over the past 3 years, I have never 
had a fan motor burn out or even seem unusually hot while using a 
variac to control speed. (This is probably due to the passing 
airstream and the fact that the mechanical load drops off when 
you slow down a fan.) 

Due to the pressure requirements, I would recommend 'going for 
the max' in the Rotron fan line right off the bat. That way you 
will probably never suffer for lack of power. My recommendation 
is to use the model I use at home (for forced outside air 
ventilation): 

    Model: 'Tarzan' TN3C2 (lead wires) or TN3A2 (terminal block)
    Power: 115 VAC 1.4 amps
    Air flow: 280 CFM
    Size: 6.91" square x 4.40" deep
    Other: Ball bearings, auto reset
    thermal protector
    Price: (guess) $100 U.S. 

A major electronics component distributor should be able to get 
this fan for you. I have a several years-old catalogues for one 
U.S. firm: Newark Electronics. (It's the Canadian version which 
doesn't have U.S. addresses.) 

Local ham radio operators and/or TV repair shops will probably 
know how to contact Newark Electronics. 

One word on specs: The amps rating is a rough but fair rating of 
a fan's overall capacity to move air. If you are considering a 
substitute, a comparable amp rating may do an adequate job. 


                           Ventilation Ducting 

The idea is to get the air in (and out) without providing a ready 
path for stray microwave, which can bounce around inside ductwork 
and get through just as light can. 

My choice would be to have an electrician use his/her hole-saw to 
put a 3-inch conduit size hole in both top and bottom of the 
sleeping box. 

At the outlet end, I would install just a 3-inch conduit "LB" 
connector, which makes a sharp right angle turn and has a removable 
steel cover. (Make sure all components test magnetic.) 

At the inlet end, I would install a 3-inch conduit "LB" connector, 
and "nipple" that directly fits into a domestic outdoor electric 
meter socket, the hole in which is a fairly good size match for 
the 'Tarzan' fan above. (Verify the size match before buying any 
meter socket.) 

The installer would then have to drill for four mounting studs 
being very careful to match the fan's corner mounting bolt holes. 
Personally I recommend drilling out the Tarzan's corner mounting 
holes with a 17/64" drill to accommodate 1/4-20 threaded stove 
bolts, which will easily handle the fan's fairly heavy weight. 

It would be a good safety feature to cover the fan with stiff 
wire screen. 

Inside the box the pipe nipple should be secured with a rounded 
bushing (which is normally used to prevent nicking of cable 
insulation.) 

At both ends, I would fill a short section of the 3-inch air 
pathway with loosened pan scrubber pad material to reduce 
microwave penetration. This material would need loosening up 
to allow free airflow. Lots of room for experimentation here. 
(Thank you, Julianne McKinney.) 

I'm not sure right now how to fasten the scrubber pad material 
to prevent it's being blown out. Anyone have any good ideas? 


                Ancillary Cables Into the Sleeping Box 

You may want to put a variac and/or other devices (clock, white 
noise mach. etc.) inside the box. This means another penetration 
of the box. 

I recommend the same type of treatment as with the air duct: Use 
a small "LB" connector to prevent a straight shot in for 
microwave signals. 

Also, after the right angle "LB", along the outside of the box, 
it is probably wise to run at least a foot of the smaller conduit 
so that microwave has farther to go. (I would run more than a foot.) 

This method will require that the appliance power plugs be cut 
off and replaced after the cables pass through the small conduit. 


                          Request for Feedback 

So far, this series of notes on shielding is largely speculative. 
Both my own experience and Julianne McKinney's shows that shielding 
does work, sometimes only partially, but still worth the effort. 

Based on that success, I'm proposing that a solid steel sleeping 
box would probably do the best job possible. I will have to wait 
for some time to try this, due to short finances. 

I would be really grateful if anyone who tries various shielding 
schemes would let me know at: 

raven1-AT-netaccess.on.ca 


September 1, 1996 

                         Skin-Contact Shielding 

My tests with shielding have so far shown that only solid sheet 
steel can guarantee shielding effect when the shield is not in 
skin contact but is in line with a known aiming direction. 

However, when the shielding is in good contact with the skin, 
all metals seem to act as shielding, possibly by short-circuiting 
some of the induced current. 

Skin contact shielding will not work very well unless you are 
able to determine the aiming direction, (if in fact there is 
one.) The reason is that, say, microwave entering your body from 
a direction behind the shielding will travel through your body 
and cause burning etc. from behind the shielding. 

If you can't determine the aiming direction, you may have signals 
coming at you from many directions. In that case, skin contact 
shielding will probably help, but not stop, the burning. 


                     Finding the Aiming Direction 

I've had success with trying steel panels in various locations 
around, above, and below my bed. If a new location gives you a 
definite pause in the harassment effects, that is likely an 
aiming direction. 

The smallest steel test panel I've had success with is an oven 
roasting pan. 

My experience is that the harassers will move fairly quickly 
to change aiming angle, sometimes within the hour. 


                         Skin Contact Materials 

Aluminum is a good candidate for skin-contact shielding as its 
oxide coating prevents most skin irritation problems. Up to 
about 1/32" thickness it can be shaped using metal shears (or 
heavy weed stem cutters) and can easily be filed to remove 
sharp edges. 

(Large model builder hobby shops carry handy-sized small 
(e.g. 4" x 10") pieces of sheet aluminum from 1/64" to 
1/16" thick.) 

It can be bent easily to conform to body contours, and remains 
clean with extended use. 

I've had experts tell me that the oxide layer hinders electrical 
contact. That may be true for high-current electric power 
connections, but it works well enough to provide relief from 
microwave burns. 

My own harassers target my nose and lips for regular microwave 
burns. I've found one brand of dust mask made by Martindale 
Protection Ltd. which is a punched flat sheet of aluminum shaped 
to cover some lip, chin, and cheek areas. Doesn't cover the nose, 
but this mask can have a nose cover fastened to it to provide 
good coverage. (I will send a mask to anyone who needs such a 
device. Any additional nose guards etc. will have to be made by 
the recipient.) 

I've also discovered that the complex curves of the face and 
head can be protected by taking time to carefully bend and fit 
1/16" (or larger) aluminum wire so that it runs along the natural 
creases and edges of facial contours. When an open wire 'mask' 
is worn and burning starts up, I just roll my head into my pillow
which puts a light pressure between the mask and my facial skin 
and deadens the greater part of the burning. 

An open wire mask which has been pre-moulded to your own facial 
contours is so light and comfortable that you scarcely know you 
are wearing it. Thin elastic waist band material or even those 
long 6" rubber bands make good mask holders. 

This is kind of an unpleasant thought, but some victims have had 
sensitive body orifices specifically targeted for microwave burns. 
(I haven't had a lot of trouble with this, though it does happen 
at times.) 

It might pay to look for various aluminum housewares which might 
conform well enough to be used as conductive inserts. Aluminum 
is quite easy to file and saw, and an almost-right utensil might 
be used with a little work at a vise. 

In the catalogue of my local hardware wholesaler are aluminum 
bolts ranging from 1/4" to 1" in diameter, and up to 6" long. 
Such bolts could conceivably be filed down for use as body 
orifice protectors. 

(Some rough shaping can be done on a rough grinding wheel. That's 
not considered good shop practice, but who cares?) 

Another handy skin contact shielding device are the galvanized 
"body and fender" washers available in most hardware stores. 
The most common size has a roughly 1/4" center hole, and is 1-1/4" 
outside diameter. These washers do come in smaller sizes. The 
widest selection would be from the catalogue of a hardware
wholesale supply house. I've found that most hardware retailers 
will special order a box of 100 (say) of the smaller sizes. 

I've found that one size with 11/64" inside diameter x 9/16" 
outside diameter fits well inside the outer ear. (My harassers 
sometimes target my ears for microwave burns.) 

The relatively small centre hole doesn't seem to interfere 
with shielding properties. 

Julianne McKinney has reported that the copper-coloured metallic 
pot scrubbers work as body-part shields. I haven't tried them yet;
the other materials including nickel- or chrome-plated dog collar 
chain seem to work well enough. 

(Those metallic pot scrubbers seem to be disappearing from 
supermarket shelves.) 

In general, copper and brass items should not be used in close 
skin contact because they dissolve in wet situations and may 
cause skin irritation and stains. 

Any reader who has had success with various skin contact (or 
other) shielding materials is asked if they would let me know. 
I am in contact with a number of mind control victims who get 
regular microwave burns as part of their treatment. 

raven1-AT-netaccess.on.ca 

Thanks. 



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