From: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Mathieu_Ren=E9?= <creaturiste-AT-magma.ca> To: <puptcrit-driftline.org-AT-lists.driftline.org> Subject: Re: [Puptcrit] Finish coating over closed cell foam? Date: Tue, 10 May 2005 02:56:15 -0400 >Mathieu, Thanks for the information, it is of great worth. A few questions: Do you use insulation grade foam, and then build up to the size you need, or...? In the past (in days before the expanse of the Web), I used light coats of contact cement to join foam pieces- is this still the way to go, or is there a better way? What has been been your experience with painting the foam? ----------------- You're welcome. Contact cement is still the best for glueing many things(when a reasonnable surface contact is possible), in my opinion and in may others. However, I use less toxic alternatives when I can. I can't stand contact cement smell in my small appartment (where I work). You'll say it is more toxic than contatct cement, but I use 3M Super77 spray glue (contact adhesive) instead. I use it outside only. I could use the ocntact cement outside too, but that would mean waiting long drying times in the cold during the winter... And I'ee yet to find a spray can smell when not in use. A paint-style can of glue can smell pretty bad for a while. Had I the facilities, I'd use contact cement, the real toxic stuff. The latex based one (Press-Tite Green, from Lepage) just isn't as strong. Which is why I use it for things which might need replacing someday, such as leather straps wrapped around my props. I use hot glue instensively(I buy the 5 pound package of long sticks by Arrow), but I still take precautions. I don't use it on things that will be under stress (weight, pressure, pulling) of any significance. Not since I met a puppeteer who told me the horror story of one of her puppet disintegrating during an outdoor performance, under the hot summer sun. It must have been really hot that day. I've used puppets that were over 30 years old without any apparent problem with the hot glued parts(lots of wool-made hair glued directly with hot glue). They do play under hot stage lights, and outdoors sometimes. and their storage areas have no environment control really. For small objects of foam , I can use hot glue. In fact, it works on all sizes, but hot glue is more expensive, and adds weight significantly(comapred to foam, which s made from over 70% air). To glue hard foam with hot glue, make sure the glue is not too hot, or the foam will melt. I had less problem when I used the low heat setting on my old glue gun for this. My new, better glue gun (which cost MUCH less and is very reliable) has no heat setting, it is on high always. So I unplug it from time to time, to cool its temperature. Yes, the insulation foam is what I use. Knowing it won't degrade like the "mattress foam" will. I prefer the blue type, because it is denser (anyways, it is in our area) than the pink. It cuts sharper edges too. It comes ina thicker sheet. The pink is the softer one, and breaks down more easily. But I usually have to use the pink, because I have not found a supplier for the blue. Regular hardware stores don't carry the blue. I'll have to find an actual supplier. I have worked with blue foam because I asked a company I worked for if I could keep the scraps they were meaning to throw away. Big chunks! Make sure you choose a denser foam. I tried to sculpt with styrofoam (the white one), but the tiny little white particules are what mkes it grainy and hard to make a detailed piece of work. I still love to find clean chunks of it, because It can make awesome lightweight strong armatures. I don't actually paint the foam itself usually. It would risk chipping. Since I build puppets and stuff that will be manipulated a lot, I add a surface to the foam before painting it. the best is paper mache. Use a strong paper and a glue that will stick wvery well to your foam. Rice paper is great for this. Cotton is strong, but thicker therefore will give an apparent partwork texture. White glue works good for this. Weldbond is better, because it will be flexible and less prone to cracking. I paint over this with acrylic paints, or a mix of the same glue as chosen, and some acrylics (for color). Since the surface is paper, the paper absorbs the paint a bit. Make sure your foam is VERY clean and free of grease or soaps before applying anything to it. A great textural world can be discovered by covering foam structures with cheesecloth dipped in white glue (Weldbond is better for this too). Play with texture, make it as gruesome or mecanically perfect as you like. A truly organic medium. I've seen puppets with skins so magical that I thought they were not real. But cheesecloth was the secret. It catches the lights like nothing else I've seen. I'm thinking it would be great, mostly unpainted ((except for some antiquing and modeling makeup) under the blacklights. Paper pulp (made more sticky by adding a tacky glue like white glue to the mix) also works on foam, if left to dry without disturbance. Warping will occur if foam sheet is too thin, because of the paper pulling on it while it shrinks. About making Sculpt or Coat sandable... Adding an aggregate to a product will weaken it the more you add. Try adding lots of talcum powder to a paper mache mix, you'll see what I mean. Makes it dry and brittle after a certain percentage. With moderation, dry additives are great. Mathieu René Créaturiste Marionnettes, Masques, Etcetera... Puppets, Masks, Etcetera... creaturiste-AT-magma.ca www.creaturiste.com (514) 274-8027 _______________________________________________ List address: puptcrit-AT-lists.driftline.org Admin interface: http://lists.driftline.org/listinfo.cgi/puptcrit-driftline.org Archives: http://www.driftline.org
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