File puptcrit/puptcrit.0505, message 152


From: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Mathieu_Ren=E9?= <creaturiste-AT-magma.ca>
To: <puptcrit-driftline.org-AT-lists.driftline.org>
Subject: Re: [Puptcrit] Finish coating over closed cell foam?
Date: Tue, 10 May 2005 02:56:15 -0400


>Mathieu,
Thanks for the information, it is of great worth.
A few questions:
Do you use insulation grade foam, and then build up to the size you
need, or...?
In the past (in days before the expanse of the Web), I used light coats
of contact cement to join foam pieces- is this still the way to go, or
is there a better way?
What has been been your experience with painting the foam?
-----------------


You're welcome.
Contact cement is still the best for glueing many things(when a reasonnable 
surface contact is possible), in my opinion and in may others. However, I 
use less toxic alternatives when I can. I can't stand contact cement smell 
in my small appartment (where I work).

You'll say it is more toxic than contatct cement, but I use 3M Super77 spray 
glue (contact adhesive) instead. I use it outside only.
I could use the ocntact cement outside too, but that would mean waiting long 
drying times in the cold during the winter...
And I'ee yet to find a spray can smell when not in use. A paint-style can of 
glue can smell pretty bad for a while.
Had I the facilities, I'd use contact cement, the real toxic stuff. The 
latex based one (Press-Tite Green, from Lepage) just isn't as strong. Which 
is why I use it for things which might need replacing someday, such as 
leather straps wrapped around my props.

I use hot glue instensively(I buy the 5 pound package of long sticks by 
Arrow), but I still take precautions. I don't use it on things that will be 
under stress (weight, pressure, pulling) of any significance. Not since I 
met a puppeteer who told me the horror story of one of her puppet 
disintegrating during an outdoor performance, under the hot summer sun. It 
must have been really hot that day. I've used puppets that were over 30 
years old without any apparent problem with the hot glued parts(lots of 
wool-made hair glued directly with hot glue). They do play under hot stage 
lights, and outdoors sometimes. and their storage areas have no environment 
control really.


 For small objects of foam , I can use hot glue. In fact, it works on all 
sizes, but hot glue is more expensive, and adds weight 
significantly(comapred to foam, which s made from over 70% air).
To glue hard foam with hot glue, make sure the glue is not too hot, or the 
foam will melt. I had less problem when I used the low heat setting on my 
old glue gun for this. My new, better glue gun (which cost MUCH less and is 
very reliable) has no heat setting, it is on high always. So I unplug it 
from time to time, to cool its temperature.



Yes, the insulation foam is what I use. Knowing it won't degrade like the 
"mattress foam" will.
I prefer the blue type, because it is denser (anyways, it is in our area) 
than the pink. It cuts sharper edges too. It comes ina thicker sheet.  The 
pink is the softer one, and breaks down more easily. But I usually have to 
use the pink, because I have not found a supplier for the blue. Regular 
hardware stores don't carry the blue. I'll have to find an actual supplier. 
I have worked with blue foam because I asked a company I worked for if I 
could keep the scraps they were meaning to throw away.
Big chunks!

Make sure you choose a denser foam. I tried to sculpt with styrofoam (the 
white one), but the tiny little white particules are what mkes it grainy and 
hard to make a detailed piece of work. I still love to find clean chunks of 
it, because It can make awesome lightweight strong armatures.


I don't actually paint the foam itself usually. It would risk chipping. 
Since I build puppets and stuff that will be manipulated a lot, I add a 
surface to the foam before painting it. the best is paper mache. Use a 
strong paper and a glue that will stick wvery well to your foam. Rice paper 
is great for this. Cotton is strong, but thicker therefore will give an 
apparent partwork texture. White glue works good for this. Weldbond is 
better, because it will be flexible and less prone to cracking.
I paint over this with acrylic paints, or a mix of the same glue as chosen, 
and some acrylics (for color).
Since the surface is paper, the paper absorbs the paint a bit.


 Make sure your foam is VERY clean and free of grease or soaps before 
applying anything to it.

A great textural world can be discovered by covering foam structures with 
cheesecloth dipped in white glue (Weldbond is better for this too). Play 
with texture, make it as gruesome or mecanically perfect as you like. A 
truly organic medium. I've seen puppets with skins so magical that I thought 
they were not real. But cheesecloth was the secret. It catches the lights 
like nothing else I've seen. I'm thinking it would be great, mostly 
unpainted ((except for some antiquing and modeling makeup) under the 
blacklights.

Paper pulp (made more sticky by adding a tacky glue like white glue to the 
mix) also works on foam, if left to dry without disturbance. Warping will 
occur if foam sheet is too thin, because of the paper pulling on it while it 
shrinks.


About making Sculpt or Coat sandable...
Adding an aggregate to a product will weaken it the more you add.
Try adding lots of talcum powder to a paper mache mix, you'll see what I 
mean. Makes it dry and brittle after a certain percentage.
With moderation, dry additives are great.



Mathieu René Créaturiste
Marionnettes, Masques, Etcetera...
Puppets, Masks, Etcetera...
creaturiste-AT-magma.ca
www.creaturiste.com
(514) 274-8027 

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