From: =?Windows-1252?Q?Mathieu_Ren=E9?= <creaturiste-AT-magma.ca>
To: <puptcrit-AT-lists.driftline.org>
Date: Sun, 21 May 2006 00:49:20 -0400
Subject: [Puptcrit] Differences between Clays...


>Still if you are commited to using an oil based clay why
dont you give it a quick coat of vynle spray on before casting? will seal it
well and rubs off the mold with your fingers.... just a thought.
D.
--------------

Hi Daniel.
I guess I was not precise enough.
I meant to say that when I put oil-based clays over my positive plaster 
forms (actor's face cast), the oil in the clay gets absorbed by the plaster.

However, when comes the time to make a mold of that, oil-based clays are 
much easier to work with than waterbased. I'm not kidding. I don't need any 
release agent. And it pulls right off the plaster when the palster is set.
No clean up, unless there are some severe undercuts, but even these captured 
lumps can be easily removed. No leftover clay matter at all.
And the contact between plaster mold and clay is so short in time (an hour 
max) that it does not leech the oil.

I don't use waterbased clays anymore because of these health problems and 
other reasons:
 -dust (gets very dusty when dry)
- "dirty" (sticks everywhere and can even stain some fabrics)
-clings to molds, must wash intensively if a release agent was not properly 
applied.
-dries the hands like nothing else
-Prone to cracks
-short work time
-becomes hard real fast.


Why I use oil-based clays such as Plastalina:
Oil-based clays stay flexible, enabling me to relase the molds without 
worrying too much about medium undercuts. I also use the clay forms as 
positives, to apply my paper mache directly over them.
Again, release is easy, but for this I apply a layer of plastic wrap. This 
means a perfectly clean inside of the shell. Those who use vaseline or any 
grease as a release for their paper mache are just asking for trouble, now 
or over time. No dust from oil-based clays.
Plastalinas are easy to clean off most surfaces. For my hands, I use a bit 
of mineral oil first, and then I wipe clean with a rag. No more rubbing like 
an insane man.

Extra tip: for hands dirty with oil paint, instead of solvent to remove the 
paint from your hands, just use vegetable oil! Rub with oil, then wipe dry 
with rag, then finish with dish washing liquid!
Of course, I'm talking about "accidental" paint stains on your hands...
Don't do fingerpainting without gloves!












Mathieu René Créaturiste
Marionnettes, Masques, Etcetera...
Puppets, Masks, Etcetera...
www.creaturiste.com
creaturiste-AT-magma.ca
(514) 274-8027
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Kismet" <kismet-AT-bigpond.net.au>
To: <puptcrit-AT-lists.driftline.org>
Sent: Sunday, May 21, 2006 12:00 AM
Subject: Re: [Puptcrit] Sharing eye mechanics with pictures


> Hi Mathieu
> Great stuff with the eyes.
> A trick I learnt from Mike Brose is to connect the two eyes with a soft
> spring each to a piece of wood with a connecting loop on the other side.
> This smoothes out the movement and produces a return to centre inclination
> in the eyes. Might take up less space too...just a thought....like the
> "socket" idea...must try that one.
>
> As to clay, I usually use water based organic clay if making a plaster
> mold...costs about 50 cents US a kilo and I give it to my kids to play 
> with
> afterwards if its contaminated by plaster fragments. Its hardly courser 
> than
> other clays...especially if you use a porceline clay...but I use 
> earthenware
> clay for making Commedia masks because the details are going to be so 
> broad
> and bold anyway. Still if you are commited to using an oil based clay why
> dont you give it a quick coat of vynle spray on before casting? will seal 
> it
> well and rubs off the mold with your fingers.... just a thought.
>
> D.
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Mathieu René" <creaturiste-AT-magma.ca>
> To: <PuppetCafe-AT-yahoogroups.com>; <puptcrit-AT-lists.driftline.org>
> Sent: Sunday, May 21, 2006 1:08 PM
> Subject: [Puptcrit] Sharing eye mechanics with pictures
>
>
> Hi all puppet geniuses.
>
> I am finally starting the eye mechanics for the mini puppets.
> I made two tests, the second one starting to make sense, but I am blocked
> for now.
> It works, but it needs improvements.
> I based it on a great idea (double sockets holding the eyes) sent to me by
> William Hennes. My next attempt will be to build his own version as
> described, but I hope I can make it work with my limited tools. This measn 
> I
> will have to find lower-tech version for the parts he mentionned.
>
> Can you help me with this?
> The movements are a bit jerky at times.
> The scew-eyes I used are too big, but that's what I had on hand for the
> prototype.
> The control stick needs too much space to provide full movement.
>
>
> Servo motors are beyond my reach (and budget) at this time. I would prefer
> to keep strings to a minimum, as I want to avoid needing to make a trap 
> for
> reaching inside the head.
>
>
> I hope some people may benefit from seeing this primitive attempt. I have 
> no
> mecanic background, just lots of past headaches trying to figure these
> things out on my own.
>
> I uploaded a montage with pics and text here:
> www.magma.ca/~uubald/mini_head_mech.jpg
> More info on the montage.
> Thanks!
>
>
>
>
> Mathieu René Créaturiste
> Marionnettes, Masques, Etcetera...
> Puppets, Masks, Etcetera...
> www.creaturiste.com
> creaturiste-AT-magma.ca
> (514) 274-8027
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