File puptcrit/puptcrit.0606, message 284

Date: Thu, 15 Jun 2006 20:07:28 -0500
Subject: Re: [Puptcrit] lighting questions for shadow puppetry

Thanks for these tips - the "two dimmers flipped" idea is what I've 
done; it worked great with normal bulbs - and today I tried it with to 
OP's and it worked well. Need to figure out the wiring to the fan - 
make it independent of the light - so it can be kept on throughout.

Nice thing about the dimmer vs blocking the lights method is that there 
is less light bleed, and also I can put the dimmer right beside me, on 
the floor, under the screen.

Basically, I am trying to create dissolves and montage effects. The 
dimmer method works much better than the light block method - which is 
basically a clean "cut".


On Jun 15, 2006, at 6:53 PM, Kurt and Kathy Hunter wrote:

> For a very simple one handed cross fade, I've just mounted two 
> household
> slide type dimmers into one box with the slides working in opposide
> directions.  Moving the two slides together in the same direction 
> (with one
> hand) fades one down and the other up.
> Kurt
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Christopher Hudert" <>
> To: <>
> Sent: Thursday, June 15, 2006 5:13 PM
> Subject: Re: [Puptcrit] lighting questions for shadow puppetry
>>    Not sure about a dimmer for the light, but it should be possible
>> since most OP have a switch for light and fan and fan only. I THINK 
>> you
>> could just interrupt the supply wires to the light after the switch 
>> and
>> add your dimmers in there. That would not give you a one handed cross
>> fade, but I don't think you will get that with a simple set up anyway.
>> If you are good with wiring you could put an additional switch on each
>> projector that sent the power to the light in one position and to a
>> separate dimmer then to the light in the other position. You could 
>> then
>> make a dimmer box where the dimmers could be mounted side by side, one
>> upside down from the other (assuming you use slide rather than dial
>> dimmers). That would give you the on in the up position for one and 
>> the
>> off in the up position for the other. Then when you slid both from up
>> to down, or vise versa, you would fade one down and the other up. Does
>> that make sense? It is a bit complicated and I hope you understand the
>> idea of the wires that would be needed to add the projector lamps to
>> the dimmers.
>>    However, a simple but quite effective way to black them out is to
>> create a hinged hood flap that mounts on the top of each projector 
>> head
>> (rather than the glass where you will be working). When you want a
>> black out of that projector, you flip it down. The light stays on but
>> it is as if you stood in front of the projector - no light or 
>> projected
>> image gets to the screen. You can then go back and forth between
>> projectors raising the flap as needed. You can even project from both
>> at once if needed. For a cross fade you just need a bit of practice on
>> the timing.
>>   Using the flap on the head means that you can place other things on
>> the glass for scenery etc. We have used things layered between plexi 
>> to
>> create scenes and still have a smooth flat surface to work the puppets
>> on.
>>    Let us know what solution(s) you end up using.
>> Christopher
>> On Jun 15, 2006, at 11:14 AM, Daniel McGuire wrote:
>>> Folks,
>>> I am trying to rig up two overhead projectors for shadow puppetry. 
>>> The
>>> idea is that a single dimmer would control the light for two 
>>> overheads
>>> - as you slide the dimmer, you would raise the light on one 
>>> projector,
>>> and darken the projector on the other side, so that you'd essentially
>>> get a dissolve from one overhead to another, tag-team style.
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