From: "W & P KREFTING" <kreftingfamily-AT-msn.com>
To: <puptcrit-AT-lists.driftline.org>
Date: Sun, 21 Jan 2007 15:28:52 -0600
Subject: Re: [Puptcrit] RECIPE: home-made surface filler


I've used Milliput, but for the modeling of table top gaming figurines and 
customizing of such. It's great stuff, but pretty expensive for most 
puppetry uses (except small touch ups), I think.

Wayne Krefting


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <puppetpro-AT-aol.com>
To: <puptcrit-AT-lists.driftline.org>
Sent: Sunday, January 21, 2007 11:31 AM
Subject: Re: [Puptcrit] RECIPE: home-made surface filler


> Have you or anyone ever tried Milliput? It's an air dry clay used in 
> making military model figurines.
>  Rolande
>
>
>  -----Original Message-----
>  From: creaturiste-AT-magma.ca
>  To: puptcrit-AT-lists.driftline.org
>  Sent: Sun, 21 Jan 2007 12:14 AM
>  Subject: [Puptcrit] RECIPE: home-made surface filler
>
>   Hi all!
>
>
> WOW!
>
> I've been experimenting with home-made paper clay (mix of paper pulp, 
> water, and
> potter's clay), to try to find a formula for a strong modeling compound 
> that
> will be good for fine details.
> I want it to be as good or stronger than Celluclay.
>
> I have not reached the goal yet, and I'm not the only one working in this 
> goal,
> but we did come up with something that could be amazing for puppetmakers.
>
> I had a very runy mix of the afformentionned ingredients, and decided to 
> try it
> as-is, as a surface effect.
> I did add some acrylic gel medium, to make sure ti would stick and be 
> slightly
> felxible to abosrb shock.
> It worked! It dried to a tan color (my clay was red, the pulp was 
> cellulose
> insulation, mostly grey), it is very matte, resists cracking, very 
> absorbent,
> and sands like a dream.
>
> I can paint acrylics in glazes and trhe paint is absorbed right in.
> The ffect is a MATTE paint job, as long as your glazes remain thin and not 
> too
> many (don,t want to clog the pores, that would mean glossyness).
>
> To be fair, I only have two pieces painted with the stuff, but already it 
> feels
> stronger and better than any mixture of joint compound I used before.
>
> This compound can be used as an ideal gesso substitute for paper mache. 
> This one
> will not soften paper mache or make it brittle.
>
> Recipe:
> Make a very liquid bach of paper pulp (wood-based paper). It helps if you 
> start
> with boiling water, pour it over your pulp, pour some of it in the blender 
> and
> wait for it all to cool a little bit (to avoid accidents) and add much 
> more of
> that same water (to avoid forcing the motor of your blender).
> blend, shredd, pulp. liquify until smooth.
> Repeat until all pulp has been treated.
> Pour the contents into a new (and very clean) piece of sheer fabric (nylon 
> works
> real well), to capture most of the pulp and evacuate most of the water..
> Rinse your pulp by pouring cold clean water over the captured pulp. Do not
> squeeze, or else you will have lumps.
> Add the pulp to a clean container, add just enough water to make the pulp 
> into a
> thick liquid again. Mix well.
> Add about 40% clay (ready to use, pre-mixed potter's clay, no grog).
> Let sit with a sheer fabric on top(to protect against dust and let water
> evaporate, for a week or two (for better  smoothness) or if you're 
> impatient,
> mix with a plaster mixer drill attachement for a few minutes, in a much 
> bigger
> container.
>
> Let sit to let the particules settle, then remove the excess water as much 
> as
> you can.
> Pour some of the mixture over a large plaster slab, to absorb extra 
> moisture.
> Mix often (with a putty knife) to avoid lumps. Repeat until you've gotten 
> a good
> thick consistency, slightly thicker than what you need.
> Keep refirgerated into a tightly sealed clean container, until you need to 
> use
> it.
> I do not reccomend to keep it more than a month. Smelly Mold in clay is
> harmless, but the kiond developing in paper is dangerous.
>
> When you need to use the mix (and not too long before), add a good 
> quantity of
> acrylic gel medium and mix very well, with a stiff brush, until it is very
> uniform.
> It might work with a liquid-consistency acrylic medium, but utwould be 
> more
> liquid, and I did not have any to test with.
>
> Spread it on a dry piece of paper mache model, using a soft brush (to 
> avoid
> brush marks, but a stiff brush makes nice scritch scratch textures 
> though).
>
> You're done if it spreads well and dries hard and resists cracking!
> It dries very fast on its own. Speed-drying with a hair dryer has not 
> caused any
> problem for me.
>
> Results will vary depending on ingredients, tools, and methods.
> Believe it or not, some acrylic gel mediums are far superior to some. The 
> one I
> use is so adhesive that it is hard to clean off of my hands. Choose the 
> GLOSS
> acrylic gel medium if you want better results. The matte is invariably 
> full of
> fillers which can give a weaker result. No worries if you need the result 
> to be
> matter, the clay and paper content will take care of that.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> .
>
>
>
>
>
>
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