From: Angusson-AT-aol.com
Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2007 10:55:03 EDT
To: creaturiste-AT-primus.ca, puptcrit-AT-puptcrit.org
Subject: [Puptcrit] Paper and glue, etc.


Suzanne:

I wanted to add to Mathieu's post about paper and glue. 
We each find different ways of using similar materials, but it's the end 
results that count. 

The HAG in the photo I sent you was made using the paper and glue method over 
carved Styrofoam. It's proven to be quite durable and takes paint 
beautifully. I usually sand the piece before painting.

I don't use insulation foam. For me, it's too fine and one usually has to 
glue up pieces to achieve a working thickness.   I use what is called Styrofoam 
'flotation' material. It's Styrene, just like the insulation foam, but of a 
somewhat coarser texture. It's cellular - (I never use the beaded kind of foam). 
It's used on boats, docks and other applications.....
If you've ever bought the Styrofoam eggs or balls found at AC Moores or 
Michael's craft stores, you'll know exactly what I mean.   Now this flotation foam 
isn't easy to find in large pieces. One can order 'batts' of it from a lumber 
yard. It's expensive but a batt goes a long way. The batts are usually 7" 
thick and are great for heads and body parts.   I use rifflers, files, sandpaper 
to shape it. 

As Mathieu points out, joints need to be reinforced. I use a different method 
in that I insert an 'armature' inside any of my foam pieces to take any 
fastenings. That way, there is no stress whatsoever on the foam. I'll send you a 
page showing what I mean.

It may be the material, but I have found that if I let the glue dry on the 
foam before I put on the first layer of paper, I have a heck of a time making 
the paper stay in place. What I do is cover an area I want to cover with glue 
and wait a few minutes until the glue gets a little tacky. Not very long. Then I 
begin to lay glued TORN pieces of Kraft paper onto the form. 

I over lap the pieces by a LOT, so that when I'm done, I've effectively done 
two layers in one step. 

One other thing. Mathieu may be right in that the paper stays on the surface 
of the foam, sticking more to itself than the foam. But when I've used yellow 
carpenter's glue (only slightly diluted) to join pieces of foam, to themselves 
or to a chunk of wood, it actually holds, once it cures. 
I have found that the paper shrinks as it dries, forming a very tight skin 
over the foam, adding to the integrity of the piece.
Hope this helps...

Fred Thompson. 

Mathieu wrote: 
> White glue, or yellow carpenter's glue work well, in combinastion with most
> papers, over foam.
> Because it's waterbased, there is no danger of melting.
> Only strong solvents melt foam.
> 
> The paper mache pieces on top of foam act like a skin, sticking mostly to
> itself than the foam.Therefore, make sure you get the paper everywhere,
> leaving no exposed foam, even in deep hard to reach places (if any).
> You can facilitate your job on the first layer by brushing some glue on the
> foam and letting it dry before starting to apply the paper.
> 
> The problem with yellow carpenter's glue, if too much of it sits on the
> surface, is that it can be incompatible with acrylic paint, and the paint
> will crack, revealing the yellow...yucky.
> you can either use white glue instead (less stiff, but very nice), or keep
> the carpenter's glue, and paint a layer of Weldbond as a sealer over the
> carpenter's glue (makes an annoying glossy finish though).
> 
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