To: <puptcrit-AT-puptcrit.org>
Date: Wed, 17 Sep 2008 18:28:22 -0400
Subject: [Puptcrit] Polymer Clay Puppets


Hi all.

Anybody here had success making puppet with polymer clays to make suitable 
performance puppets?

I know it's been done before. Alexander Mergold hasmade quite a few.
Anybody on this list can tell us about their successes/failure with it?

I've started working again with Super Sculpey last night. It's a polymer 
clay formula that is very popular with doll artists and some model makers 
for maquettes. Not my first formula of choice, but the affordable price 
range for the quantity I needed.

Polymer clays usually are not ideal for puppet work, because most are 
brittle.
Some formulas that are too hard and brittle are absolutely unsuitable.
Some others are made to be flexible. Sculpey Premo is said to stay very soft 
and flexible when baked.
I've yet to try this one, it's not easy to find a good selection where I am 
(Fimo still dominates, Suoper Sculpey is inits own category, and somtimes we 
havew a few colors of Sculpey 3). I wonder if it eventually breaks off, 
after a few bendings...

Last year I made some tests with FIMO, to see if it was too weak. It was, 
but only in the thin protrusions, such as a nose, or fingers.  So I applied 
two layers of paper mache strips (rice paper with white glue). Already, at 
only two layers, it's much stronger against scratches and impact.  A few 
more layers and it would become a neat protective skin to make a puppet head 
or hands strong enough to withstand stage work and touring.
Then again, strength is relative, a lot of classic marionettes were made in 
cast plaster or even porcelain!
Some might think it's a lot of work to compensate for the weakness, and that 
it would hide features and details. Well, not if you reserve this approach 
to small puppets (the weight helps instead of being a hindrance), and if you 
keep your sculpt bolder than the final you plan for. The paper layers will 
smoothen the sharpest edge into a clean controlled smoothed edge.
And as for texture, paper comes in varieties, so you have a perfect look or 
a perfect ground to accept paints or other coloring medias.


For those who don't know Super Sculpey:
(the following tips also apply to other polymer clays, but do make some 
tests, as formulas vary).
The color is a gentle tan/caucasian skin, and the texture lends itself well 
to subtle smooothing. A lot of people find it way too soft. I tend to agree, 
but if you dont keep it in your hands, it's muchg easier to deal with.  I 
work with metal tools, and work atop a sturdy armature in thin applications, 
so the extra warmth is no real problem for me, except for hot summer days. 
I've heard of some people keeping small lumps of the clay in a container 
which sits atop another filled with ice, to keep a constant spply of cool 
Sculpey.

I also like to semi-bake some of the parts with a heat gun when I judge them 
ready for another step. That way, I don't mess up my hard work by any 
accidental hit.

Last night I read some neat tricks to smoothen the Super Sculpey.
As much for reconditionning a dried up clay that sat on the shelf or in the 
box too long, as for smoothing the surface, as for attaching unbak0ed clay 
to baked clay, Sculpey Diluent is a good product to have, they say. I tried 
it, it works. If you can't get it where you are, Petroleum jelly, if rubbed 
in very small quantities on the baked clay, will do the same thing. I tried 
it, but I can't tell scientifically if it is as strong as the diluent.

Other methods: While it is still unbaked, you can rub some Johnson's Baby 
Oil with your fingers or a brush (from coarse to soft brush, for better 
finishing).. Some people prefer various solvents, which are Turpentine, 
Lighter fluid, and Alcohol (70% and up). Some mix the turpentine with the 
alcohol. Those solvents can make the clay surface brittle, so use just a 
little at a time, and only when you're sure you like the sculpt and won't be 
working anything else than a smoothing step. Various sources online mention 
using 90% alcohol, but I tried the 70% I had at home (rubbing alcohol aka 
Isopropyl) , and it works like a charm.

Some people have told about using some vegetable oil or cooking oil for 
smoothing and polishing after baking. If you do, I would reccomend washing 
the piece afterwards properly before proceeding to any other step. Vegetable 
oils go rancid and smelly. Who know's they could attack the product!
They also prevent proper paint adhesion.


_______________________________________________
List address: puptcrit-AT-puptcrit.org
Admin interface: http://lists.puptcrit.org/mailman/listinfo/puptcrit
Archives: http://www.driftline.org