From: "Puppet People" <puppetpeople-AT-nycap.rr.com> To: <puptcrit-AT-puptcrit.org> Date: Wed, 17 Sep 2008 19:19:42 -0400 Subject: Re: [Puptcrit] Polymer Clay Puppets Hey Matthieu; I have only used sculpty on making hands for marionettes and only in a pinch. Nothing to detailed or fragile either, but large round clown hands(similar to Mickey Mouse's). Some of our first puppets we made 15 years ago still have sculpty hands, but I would really recommend either casting or carving them. Most of our marionettes & Rod puppets heads are cast in a plastic called "Light Cast" or "Feather Cast". I hate making molds but so far its the best especially for detail. Mark The puppet people ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mathieu René" <creaturiste-AT-primus.ca> To: <puptcrit-AT-puptcrit.org> Sent: Wednesday, September 17, 2008 6:28 PM Subject: [Puptcrit] Polymer Clay Puppets > Hi all. > > Anybody here had success making puppet with polymer clays to make suitable > performance puppets? > > I know it's been done before. Alexander Mergold hasmade quite a few. > Anybody on this list can tell us about their successes/failure with it? > > I've started working again with Super Sculpey last night. It's a polymer > clay formula that is very popular with doll artists and some model makers > for maquettes. Not my first formula of choice, but the affordable price > range for the quantity I needed. > > Polymer clays usually are not ideal for puppet work, because most are > brittle. > Some formulas that are too hard and brittle are absolutely unsuitable. > Some others are made to be flexible. Sculpey Premo is said to stay very > soft > and flexible when baked. > I've yet to try this one, it's not easy to find a good selection where I > am > (Fimo still dominates, Suoper Sculpey is inits own category, and somtimes > we > havew a few colors of Sculpey 3). I wonder if it eventually breaks off, > after a few bendings... > > Last year I made some tests with FIMO, to see if it was too weak. It was, > but only in the thin protrusions, such as a nose, or fingers. So I > applied > two layers of paper mache strips (rice paper with white glue). Already, at > only two layers, it's much stronger against scratches and impact. A few > more layers and it would become a neat protective skin to make a puppet > head > or hands strong enough to withstand stage work and touring. > Then again, strength is relative, a lot of classic marionettes were made > in > cast plaster or even porcelain! > Some might think it's a lot of work to compensate for the weakness, and > that > it would hide features and details. Well, not if you reserve this approach > to small puppets (the weight helps instead of being a hindrance), and if > you > keep your sculpt bolder than the final you plan for. The paper layers will > smoothen the sharpest edge into a clean controlled smoothed edge. > And as for texture, paper comes in varieties, so you have a perfect look > or > a perfect ground to accept paints or other coloring medias. > > > For those who don't know Super Sculpey: > (the following tips also apply to other polymer clays, but do make some > tests, as formulas vary). > The color is a gentle tan/caucasian skin, and the texture lends itself > well > to subtle smooothing. A lot of people find it way too soft. I tend to > agree, > but if you dont keep it in your hands, it's muchg easier to deal with. I > work with metal tools, and work atop a sturdy armature in thin > applications, > so the extra warmth is no real problem for me, except for hot summer days. > I've heard of some people keeping small lumps of the clay in a container > which sits atop another filled with ice, to keep a constant spply of cool > Sculpey. > > I also like to semi-bake some of the parts with a heat gun when I judge > them > ready for another step. That way, I don't mess up my hard work by any > accidental hit. > > Last night I read some neat tricks to smoothen the Super Sculpey. > As much for reconditionning a dried up clay that sat on the shelf or in > the > box too long, as for smoothing the surface, as for attaching unbak0ed clay > to baked clay, Sculpey Diluent is a good product to have, they say. I > tried > it, it works. If you can't get it where you are, Petroleum jelly, if > rubbed > in very small quantities on the baked clay, will do the same thing. I > tried > it, but I can't tell scientifically if it is as strong as the diluent. > > Other methods: While it is still unbaked, you can rub some Johnson's Baby > Oil with your fingers or a brush (from coarse to soft brush, for better > finishing).. Some people prefer various solvents, which are Turpentine, > Lighter fluid, and Alcohol (70% and up). Some mix the turpentine with the > alcohol. Those solvents can make the clay surface brittle, so use just a > little at a time, and only when you're sure you like the sculpt and won't > be > working anything else than a smoothing step. Various sources online > mention > using 90% alcohol, but I tried the 70% I had at home (rubbing alcohol aka > Isopropyl) , and it works like a charm. > > Some people have told about using some vegetable oil or cooking oil for > smoothing and polishing after baking. If you do, I would reccomend washing > the piece afterwards properly before proceeding to any other step. > Vegetable > oils go rancid and smelly. Who know's they could attack the product! > They also prevent proper paint adhesion. > > > _______________________________________________ > List address: puptcrit-AT-puptcrit.org > Admin interface: http://lists.puptcrit.org/mailman/listinfo/puptcrit > Archives: http://www.driftline.org _______________________________________________ List address: puptcrit-AT-puptcrit.org Admin interface: http://lists.puptcrit.org/mailman/listinfo/puptcrit Archives: http://www.driftline.org
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