File puptcrit/puptcrit.0809, message 172


From: "Puppet People" <puppetpeople-AT-nycap.rr.com>
To: <puptcrit-AT-puptcrit.org>
Date: Wed, 17 Sep 2008 19:19:42 -0400
Subject: Re: [Puptcrit] Polymer Clay Puppets


Hey Matthieu;
    I have only used sculpty on making hands for marionettes and only in a 
pinch. Nothing to detailed or fragile either, but large round clown 
hands(similar to Mickey Mouse's). Some of our first puppets we made 15 years 
ago still have sculpty hands, but I would really recommend either casting or 
carving them.
    Most of our marionettes & Rod puppets heads are cast in a plastic called 
"Light Cast" or "Feather Cast". I hate making molds but so far its the best 
especially for detail.

Mark
The puppet people
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mathieu René" <creaturiste-AT-primus.ca>
To: <puptcrit-AT-puptcrit.org>
Sent: Wednesday, September 17, 2008 6:28 PM
Subject: [Puptcrit] Polymer Clay Puppets


> Hi all.
>
> Anybody here had success making puppet with polymer clays to make suitable
> performance puppets?
>
> I know it's been done before. Alexander Mergold hasmade quite a few.
> Anybody on this list can tell us about their successes/failure with it?
>
> I've started working again with Super Sculpey last night. It's a polymer
> clay formula that is very popular with doll artists and some model makers
> for maquettes. Not my first formula of choice, but the affordable price
> range for the quantity I needed.
>
> Polymer clays usually are not ideal for puppet work, because most are
> brittle.
> Some formulas that are too hard and brittle are absolutely unsuitable.
> Some others are made to be flexible. Sculpey Premo is said to stay very 
> soft
> and flexible when baked.
> I've yet to try this one, it's not easy to find a good selection where I 
> am
> (Fimo still dominates, Suoper Sculpey is inits own category, and somtimes 
> we
> havew a few colors of Sculpey 3). I wonder if it eventually breaks off,
> after a few bendings...
>
> Last year I made some tests with FIMO, to see if it was too weak. It was,
> but only in the thin protrusions, such as a nose, or fingers.  So I 
> applied
> two layers of paper mache strips (rice paper with white glue). Already, at
> only two layers, it's much stronger against scratches and impact.  A few
> more layers and it would become a neat protective skin to make a puppet 
> head
> or hands strong enough to withstand stage work and touring.
> Then again, strength is relative, a lot of classic marionettes were made 
> in
> cast plaster or even porcelain!
> Some might think it's a lot of work to compensate for the weakness, and 
> that
> it would hide features and details. Well, not if you reserve this approach
> to small puppets (the weight helps instead of being a hindrance), and if 
> you
> keep your sculpt bolder than the final you plan for. The paper layers will
> smoothen the sharpest edge into a clean controlled smoothed edge.
> And as for texture, paper comes in varieties, so you have a perfect look 
> or
> a perfect ground to accept paints or other coloring medias.
>
>
> For those who don't know Super Sculpey:
> (the following tips also apply to other polymer clays, but do make some
> tests, as formulas vary).
> The color is a gentle tan/caucasian skin, and the texture lends itself 
> well
> to subtle smooothing. A lot of people find it way too soft. I tend to 
> agree,
> but if you dont keep it in your hands, it's muchg easier to deal with.  I
> work with metal tools, and work atop a sturdy armature in thin 
> applications,
> so the extra warmth is no real problem for me, except for hot summer days.
> I've heard of some people keeping small lumps of the clay in a container
> which sits atop another filled with ice, to keep a constant spply of cool
> Sculpey.
>
> I also like to semi-bake some of the parts with a heat gun when I judge 
> them
> ready for another step. That way, I don't mess up my hard work by any
> accidental hit.
>
> Last night I read some neat tricks to smoothen the Super Sculpey.
> As much for reconditionning a dried up clay that sat on the shelf or in 
> the
> box too long, as for smoothing the surface, as for attaching unbak0ed clay
> to baked clay, Sculpey Diluent is a good product to have, they say. I 
> tried
> it, it works. If you can't get it where you are, Petroleum jelly, if 
> rubbed
> in very small quantities on the baked clay, will do the same thing. I 
> tried
> it, but I can't tell scientifically if it is as strong as the diluent.
>
> Other methods: While it is still unbaked, you can rub some Johnson's Baby
> Oil with your fingers or a brush (from coarse to soft brush, for better
> finishing).. Some people prefer various solvents, which are Turpentine,
> Lighter fluid, and Alcohol (70% and up). Some mix the turpentine with the
> alcohol. Those solvents can make the clay surface brittle, so use just a
> little at a time, and only when you're sure you like the sculpt and won't 
> be
> working anything else than a smoothing step. Various sources online 
> mention
> using 90% alcohol, but I tried the 70% I had at home (rubbing alcohol aka
> Isopropyl) , and it works like a charm.
>
> Some people have told about using some vegetable oil or cooking oil for
> smoothing and polishing after baking. If you do, I would reccomend washing
> the piece afterwards properly before proceeding to any other step. 
> Vegetable
> oils go rancid and smelly. Who know's they could attack the product!
> They also prevent proper paint adhesion.
>
>
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