File spoon-archives/third-world-women.archive/third-world-women_1996/96-06-05.103, message 120


From: Akan-AT-aol.com
Date: Mon, 19 Feb 1996 17:13:06 -0500
Subject: The Cultural Traveler


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  	THE CULTURAL  TRAVELER
Vol. 1, No. 8 		             March l996 
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CULTURE-RICH CARRIACOU

There are only two saving graces to leaving an island as lovely and
culturally blessed as Grenada.  First is the intense desire to return for
another pleasurable vacation visit as soon as possible, and secondly is that
you are off on yet another magnificent cultural adventure--this time to
Grenada's largest sister island, charismatic Carriacou.

Grenadian friends had emphasized to me that Carriacou was quite different
>from Grenada--much smaller, much quieter, and quite a bit more rustic. 
These were welcome words of introduction to the island, as in my travels, I
enjoy visiting a lively, upscale island and then topping off the vacation
entree with a "dessert" of a refreshing, meditative getaway to a serenely
placid spot where one can contemplate, commune with nature, and totally
relax mind, body, and spirit.  Carriacou fills such a bill perfectly.

I would have preferred taking the leisurely boat ride to Carriacou, but my
remaining days in the Caribbean were limited, so I opted for a LIAT flight
which encompassed only a few minutes rather than a few hours.  Hardly
had I taken my eyes from Grenada's retreating shores before we were ready
to disembark in culture-rich Carriacou.

"So here you are," I thought, as I gathered up my possessions.  "I have
heard so much about you, Carriacou.  Now we finally get to meet one
another 'face to face'."   My first acquaintanceship with the diminutively
pretty island had come through reading a wonderful novel, Praisesong for
the Widow, by one of my favorite literary creators, Paule Marshall.  In the
novel, a middle-aged, conservative African-American traveler, Avey
Johnson, becomes reconnected with her long-lost African heritage partially
through visiting Carriacou and experiencing the African Nations Dance
frequently performed there.

We learn through the novel that many Carriacouans actually know the
African nation from which they are descended and pay homage to their
ancestors through a number of traditions, including the aforementioned
dance, which is also known as the Big Drum Dance.  From the moment of
reading Praisesong..., I was fascinated with the islanders' retentions of our
traditions as an African-descended people, longed to learn more about
these practices, and most of all to ultimately experience Carriacou.
My wish was granted through my meeting a wonderful Carriacouan
historian, poet, and educator, Ms. Christine David, who amply describes
the Big Drum dance and other African-derived rituals of Carriacou in her
work, The Folklore of Carriacou.  In an effort to keep the Big Drum
dance tradition alive, Ms. David formed a dance company in the 70's called
the Carriacou Carib Organization.  The company consists of not only the
youth who are interested in learning about and celebrating their heritage,
but also of skilled elders dancers like Ms. Lucian Duncan who have taken
on the admirable goal of continuously celebrating our heritage and passing
on the rich tradition.  (Ms. David's poem, "Drum Echoes", is featured in
my Caribbean cultural travel guide, Caribbean Bound! - Culture Roots,
Places, and People; and a photo of the beautiful elder Big Drum dancer,
Ms. Duncan, became the inspiration for the book's cover artwork (by
talented artsmith, Bill Waithe).

 An Islands Magazine article introduced me to the work of Mr. Winston
Fleary, another noted authority on the African Nations Dance, who has
given lectures and organized performances of the dance in varied world
spots.  Meeting such cultural leaders and tradition-bearers is a delightful
part of a cultural journey, and I looked forward to sitting at the feet of
these scholars and imbibing their knowledge of our people's contributions
to that part of the world.

The Silver Beach Resort, my vacation domicile in Carriacou, was the scene
of Christine's visit to me one rainy island day.  Stepping across the puddle
in front of my door, we sat on the terrace as the rain slowed itself to a
drizzle and discussed her work in spreading the word on the Big Drum
ritual and teaching the tradition to the Carriacouan youth.  The annual
Carriacou Regatta, held in August, was right around the corner, and the
Big Drum Dance is performed at practically all of the major festivities that
take place in Carriacou during that time, particularly the boat launchings. 
The island was busily preparing itself for that event and for the large
annual
influx of fun-loving visitors and kinfolks returning home from across the
world.

Just as Grenadians had wondered how I could bear to miss Carnival there,
friendly Carriacouans wondered how in the world I could be leaving just
before the Regatta.  Explained how I enjoyed viewing the islands in their
quiet, laid-back periods contrasting the atmosphere with the colorful,
nonstop "lively up yourself" times.  In other words, Carnival in Grenada
and Regatta in Carriacou would definitely serve as an irresistible lure back
to the islands to experience the epitome of the high-life times there.

The next day found Carriacou bountifully graced by the sun once more but
still a bit muddy.  Slipped and slid down the steep hill to the black sand
beaches where fishing boats were being given the final touches for the
upcoming races.  Chose a huge, eye-catching conchshell for the sizable
mound of seashells of all sizes and shapes near the side of one of the
fishing
vessels.

This is the day of an island tour hosted by a Tourist Board representative,
with Mr. Bryant White as guide and driver.  One of the more scenic spots
is just behind the island hospital where one gets not only a full scope of 
Carriacou's natural endowments, but the tinier neighboring islands of Petit
Martinique and Petit St. Vincent reveal themselves for viewing also.

Wind up the tour at the Carriacou Museum where the island's rich culture
and history are presented, including photographs and text on the Big Drum
dance tradition.  Unique souvenirs such as hand-painted Carriacouan t-
shirts and the chatty, pleasantly informative little work called This Is
Carriacou are available for sale.  

Have been given a contact number for Mr. Fleary and make a mental note
to call him before leaving the island.  Ironically enough, we immediately
run into him sitting on the terrace of the Plymouth bar enjoying the island
atmosphere.  We are introduced and I spend the next hour or so listening
to his enthralling account of the African history on the island and the
deeply spiritual experience of the Big Drum tradition.  Originally from
Haiti, he mentions that he is descended from the Fleary who fought with
Touissaint L'Ouverture during the Haitian Revolution.  From his intense
seriousness regarding his work and our African diaspora history, one can
readily see that he maintains the pride of that early ancestor.

Had been invited by neighborhood Kayaks (the regional nickname for
Carriacouans) to a "little dance action" at the Plymouth bar the evening
before; instead ended up falling asleep while reading one of the African
novels or histories that usually accompany me on my cultural getaways. 
Note that I am preferring stimulating mental action such as that shared with
David and Fleary to island dance action these days.  Will leave that for my
21-year-old and her friends; well, at least until I return to gorgeous,
glorious Grenada for Carnival and culture-rich Carriacou for Regatta and
the spirit-stirring performances of the Big Drum/African Nations Dance. 
At these island times, hardly anyone can resist the dance action.

Note:  In addition to the Regatta, another large Carriacouan celebration
which takes place yearly (just prior to Christmas) is the Carriacou Parang
Festival.  This festival honors the indigenous cultures of the islanders and
includes bands, parades, and parties.  Popular places to stay on the island
are Ade's Dream Guest House, the Sands Guest House, the cottages at
Cassada Bay, and the Mermaid Inn, which is also noted for the tasty
seafood served at its restaurant.  

Although the narrow, black sand beach at the Silver Sands Beach Resort
leaves much to be desired, the facility also has a nice restaurant and is
within a short walking distance of the museum in Hillsborough, the
harborfront, and a bakery which serves good roti (a flat bread which
contains curried meat and potatoes) and tasty tropical ice cream.  Prices at
restaurants and hotels in Carriacou, by the way, are quite reasonable; and
as in Grenada, most islanders tend to be warm, friendly, and welcoming. 
Lovely Carriacou is a definite refreshment to the culture-lover's spirit. 

The last time I spoke with Christine David her informative book, The
Folklore of Carriacou, was practically sold out, with no reprint date set. 
However, she may still have a few copies available.  Interested parties may
contact me:  (Akan-AT-aol.com) with offline addresses and I will gladly
forward them to her.  You may also send inquiries to her via the offline
address given at the end of the newsletter.

			   ---Linda Cousins/Amasewa Okomfo
				         Publisher/Editor

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CULTURE-SHARING INFORMATION

While working on this newsletter, I'm listening to a fantastic tape, "One of
a Kind", by a talented Caribbean artist, Antiguan-born Ruppert Blaize.
>From exciting Carnival music, (Pung Pang Pang--Carnival in Wadadli) to
stirring love ballads (Love Is a Feeling) to thought-provoking conscious
music (Rivers Run Deep), this tape is true to its title in being a
high-quality,
one of a kind exploration of Caribbean culture and universal world
concerns.  To get information regarding obtaining your own copy of One
of a Kind, e-mail SonnieA047-AT-aol.com.

Jamdown Lovers - the Africancentric travel agency, Travel Perks, offers
specifically designed cultural journeys for those wishing to access the lush
terrain and magnificent culture of gorgeous Jamaica.  Combine your
business and organizational seminars with cultural travel while supporting
the fine businesses of our people in Jamaica.  Br. Norman Bonner is an on-
line expert on the cultural offerings and beautyspots of Jamaica.  E-mail
NBonner1-AT-aol.com for further information on his agency's travel
offerings; speaking of Jamaica, for those who would like to enjoy or share
gift items of this island's tasty spices, e-mail JHarris-AT-aol.com

Online Gullah sister, Marquetta L. Goodwine offers a treat of a lifetime
through exploration of the rich Gullah culture via her popular getaways and
guided tours of  South Carolina Gullah country (site of Julie Dash's
acclaimed film, Daughters of the Dust).  Director of  the AKAN
organization, Sr. Goodwine has several interesting cultural adventures on
the itinerary for the year, as well as both online and offline business and
cultural networking opportunities.  E-mail QueenMut-AT-aol.com for
information.

A wonderfully unique new anthology is in the making for us Africancentric
and culturally-aware travel lovers:  Go Girl! - A Travel Guide for the
African-American Woman.  Edited by Bay area attorney/travel
enthusiast, Elaine Lee, the work will be published by Eighth Mountain
Press and will feature articles, interviews, poetry, and resource information
geared to the Black woman traveler.  Submissions are still being accepted
for this historic travel guide.  Looking forward with anticipation to this
novel work centering on our cultural-traveling sisters.  E-mail: 
ELee394930-AT-aol.com or laneybug-AT-ix.netcom.

Call for Papers for the Second National Conference of Women's Travel
Issues.  The conference will be held October 24-26, 1996, in Baltimore,
Maryland, and will explore issues on "travel patterns, needs, and attitudes
of women and their families", with a particular focus on women of color. 
Abstracts for papers to be presented at the conference will be accepted
until March 15, 1996.  For detailed information, e-mail the conference co-
chair, Dr. Sandi Rosenbloom at Rosenblo-AT-Aruba.CCIT.Arizona.edu
                                                       
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For those considering travel to Nassau, Bahamas, a good, "home away
>from home" choice for the budget-minded cultural traveler is the newly
renovated Astoria Hotel, right in the heart of the cultural, historic, and
shopping action on downtown Bay Street, only a five-minute walk away. 
The hotel is also situated across the street from Long Wharf (Western
Esplanade) Beach, allowing a lovely view from one's room of Mother
Ocean, a beloved sight to the eye of nature-loving vacationers in the
islands. (Astoria rates:  standard ocean view room, with tv and telephone--
$55; $5 for an extra person in rooms.  The side ocean view rooms are $50. 
Deluxe rooms with both ocean front and harbor view are $75.  These
reasonable rates include taxes, energy, and gratuities.)  

The hotel also has a large swimming pool, as well as an indoor and outdoor
restaurant and bar serving local and continental specialties; (breakfast is
included in the room rate for $5 extra daily: dinner--$12.50 daily). The
rooms also have satellite tv with HBO, Bahamian, and two music channel--
nice watching the BET videos to top off the evening or to get in the vibe
for a night on the town--(the popular Bahamen's Culture Club is right
around the corner and the Goombay Club is across the street on the beach). 
Contact information:  The Astoria Hotel, POB N3236, Nassau, N. P.,
Bahamas; tel:809/322-8666-9; fax:809/322-8660.   

copyright (c) TUAW Press l996

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The Cultural Traveler is excerpted in large part from the newly released
Caribbean Travel Guide, CARIBBEAN BOUND! - CULTURE ROOTS,
PLACES, AND PEOPLE -  Linda Cousins, Cultural Travel Publications,
POB 5, Radio City Station, New York, NY 10101-0005  (E-Mail
Akan-AT-aol.com).  This 226-page guide covers the entire Caribbean region
as well as Bermuda and the Bahamas, giving  listings of Black and
Amerindian historical and cultural sites, events, festivals, and businesses,
as
well as a synopsis of the writer's experiences as an African-American travel
writer and frequent cultural traveler to the Caribbean.  The work also
includes travel poetry and an extensive Caribbean literature bibliography. 
Must reading for those who want to move beyond a beach and hotel
environment to touch the heart and soul of the islands and their fine
culture-roots people. 

For your personal copy of CARIBBEAN BOUND!, send a check/money
order for $14.95 for each copy ordered.  (add $1 for each additional
copy/$2 - Canada and foreign countries) to:  L. Cousins, Cultural Travel
Publications, PO Box 5, Radio City Station, New York, NY 10101-0005.  
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